This is my experience at Burning Man 1997, my first. I am relaying my own observations, and I do not speak for any other individual or organization. The experience is so unique I felt the need to try to submit it to History in my own words.
For the official Burning Man site click here.
I didn't know until nearly
the last day whether or not I was going to make it to the 1997
Burning Man gathering. The previous year I would likely have gone
If I hadn't had an opportunity to exhibit at LACON III, the World
Science Fiction convention. It was the first time since 1974 that
I had a show at such a convention, and was a way to show a good
number of pieces at once.
Other IAAA members attended that WorldCon art show
as well.
Joel Hagen and Carter Emmart, however, were not among
them. I had gotten laudatory accounts from them about a yearly
'Burning Man' festival which also happened Labor Day weekend.
I resolved not to miss the next one, and as my current projects
were drawing to a conclusion my hopes were raised that I could
actually get away for once. Karen, former neighbor and continuing
friend, was in town and seemed to have little constraints on her
next few days. She too was intrigued by 'Burning Man' and said
she had access to a tent and other necessary items.
After showing her the 'Burning Man' website and figuring out what
to buy, she left to see what could be dredged up from local friends.
Both of us had to see if it was possible to be ready to get away
Monday night like I wanted! I proceeded as if I would, buying
up camping supplies and stocking up on video related items, such
as a camcorder battery recharger I could plug into to my car's
cigarette lighter. Now I could recharge batteries in the field!
I was then in the final throes of a lengthy project to
produce some 4 minutes of computer animation of a Solar System
tour and an impact on the Earth, both of which were suffering
last minute problems. I got a frantic phone call about one bad
frame in part of my Solar System animation, I reviewed the file
(thank God I had not trashed it thinking I was done!) and quickly
worked out a fix and e-mailed the replacement frame to them the
night before I was to leave! I was free at last after 9 months
of unending rendering and rerendering animations on a crisis schedule,
I was finally able to let go for a while! It some time for it
to sink in, I was afraid another panicked call would come and
I couldn't go!
A tent was found, worn and tattered but complete
Tent repair kits (we both bought one) came in very handy later.
We drove to Reno, an all day drive from L.A., and spent the night
there in order to get a fresh start on the day and arrive as close
to the opening of the gate as possible, noon on Wednesday. I hadn't
gotten tickets in advance as I was supposed to, so I wanted to
make sure I had the best chance to obtain what I feared might
be a limited commodity at the gate.
For the longest time there was no trace of anyone else likely
to be connected with the event on the roads from Reno, only on
the last stretch did we get stuck behind the most elaborately
decorated bus I had ever seen, thousands of brilliantly colored
plastic toys stuck to every inch of available surface area! We
arrived at about 2:30, gave our 75 dollars each to the gate person
and got a bit of literature, a window sticker saying "Black
Rock City 1997" with a stylized "Burning Man' symbol,
and advice on where to park. Once we parked, there was no driving
on the Playa, a sensible rule imposed after some tragic events
at last year's event. I parked not too far from the main road
in, near a long row of portapotties'.
Amid the dust to the North of us construction activity
was in evidence.
At that moment we were practically alone on a wide
stretch of very flat dried mud with the natural intricate network
of mud cracks stretching to the flat horizon ahead. Two months
ago this area was under a couple feet of water, now except for
a few roped off sections it is dry and solid.
We were on a dry lake bed in the Black Rock Desert,
with distant mountains enclosing vast stretches of light tan dry
lake bottom. There are no rocks out there, only the very fine
dust that gets worn from the mud. Dry grass bordered the edge
of the playa behind us, tall poles and scaffoldings were sprouting
amid distant tents and piles of hay bales, and beyond it all a
tall wooden framework erected in the likeness of a man loomed,
it's head an inverted pyramid Judging from the people near it
the figure must have been over 40 feet tall.
This all needs investigation, but first task is setting
up a tent in windy conditions. About an hour after we start, we
have shelter, and busy ourselves at improvising a fix for the
broken zipper as well as to repair the tears and holes we found.
It was vital to be able to seal off the tent entirely from things
that crawl. 2 hours later the job is done, and the first afternoon
was spent watching others arrive and the emergence of a tent city
around me.
From the first moment I arrived, I took seriously the survival
guidelines posted on the website concerning water and sun. Drinking
lots of water was already a habit with me but the virtues of sunblock
were repeatedly rejoiced in.
People I knew were supposed to be there, but as time went on the
likelihood of picking out anyone in particular diminished. Many
tents and other small ramshackle structures were sprouting next
to or from cars and trucks, bicycle and foot paths were defining
themselves amid the rough rows of what was to turn into the main
part of Black Rock city.
A large central open circle was lined with some
booths, bulletin boards, and an open structure bearing a sign
with the message "No Spectators".
Pounding and sawing were heard everywhere, people
unloading parts of things from produce trucks, generators roaring,
and big odd things steadily taking shape. A droning heralds the
approach of a pair of ultralight craft, people suspended from
inflated paragliders with propeller bearing motors strapped to
their backs. Farther overhead a newer white acrobatic plane with
forward swept wings does loops, and finally the sheriff's helicopter
appears to survey the scene, again and again.
I see a one person copter being unloaded from
a trailer as I walk along, then the sun is about to set below
the nearby mountain ridge to our west and I watch the shadow sweep
across the scene. A sudden dimming in the entire sunlit playa
quickly sees the colors of daylight crowded into a line below
the distant eastern mountains, violet light of the shadows filling
every shadow of the distant orange-pink illuminated rock faces.
Not a cloud to be seen, only the deepening blue of a pristine
sky. Venus hangs bright above the silhouetted ridge as darkness
arrives, Jupiter is the second bright 'star' to be noticed, high
to the east.
All afternoon and the next day, Karen
patiently builds a low circular wall around our site, a kind of
benign territory marker. She calls it a 'sleeping circle', and
alludes to native American practices of this type. Eventually
a nice little rampart is built, with every bit of waste water
used to wet down it's structure to harden it further. This one
night, before the bulk of the crowd was to arrive, was the best
look I got of the heavens.
As night fell, I walked a good ways into the
darkness, until only a few lights and muffled noises betrayed
the presence of others. Scorpius was still just above the mountainous
horizon at nightfall, with the brightest portion of the Milky
Way looming above the mountains. It's intricate pathway divided
the sky in two, with major dark zones entering and even dividing
it's radiance here and there.
On the way back, I saw a disturbing sight, the
Sheriff's copter noisily flying low with all it's lights off!
It was silhouetted against the sky, which was beginning to glow
from the lights. I thought the FAA rules applied to everybody.
Not much to do that night, Sleep was welcome and peaceful.
On Thursday, more was happening, people started
arriving in a never ending stream. A column of dust extended to
the pass in the mountains we crossed yesterday, at night car lights
shone through the dust into the distance. Many new tents and trailers
appeared nearby, and a kind of system of rows evolved as a series
of cul-de-sacs became defined by where people ended up parking,
radiating from larger predefined rows we were initially guided
into. Steadily we reached saturation, and a fairly crowded tent
city grew further around and far beyond us.
A vast crescent shaped zone soon extended from
the central open 'main camp' to a mile or so on either side. A
roped off line defined the limits of expansion into the desert
beyond which only isolated art objects were set up. Beyond that
was a vast flat stretch bounded only by the faraway signs marking
the edge of the allotted territory perhaps a mile into the Playa.
Lots of hammering, sawing, wiring, and stacking were going on
as many 'theme camps' were sprouting like unpredictable mutant
mushrooms. The percentage of altered landscape increased around
us, with slim remnants of tan flatness visible between the campsites,
the original textures erased by wheels and feet. Some tall scaffolding
structures had been erected nearby, adorned with colorful sheets
and strings of lights.
Trucks would pass slowly by, spraying water
on the established roads to keep dust down.It was hot, and people
would deliberately ride bicycles inside the stream or run up to
wash their hands after visiting the toilets once the water pumps
nest to the portapotties ran dry, which happened the second day.
In the desert, several wonders were already
in place. Among them was a large intricate metal sculpture of
a kneeling man looking up. A simulation of an excavated temple
was made by ribboning off a rectangular parcel of desert and digging
a few places where paving stones were 'excavated'.
A giant balloon of a crouching figure had a
face of a woman oddly glancing backwards pasted on it, in a manner
which made you look at it again. A tent perhaps a third the size
of a circus tent painted it's stripes of rainbow colors against
the desert monochrome.
One amazing structure was known as the 'Lingam', built
by an artist and composer named Pepe whose operas on the playa
are legendary. For the picture here I took day and night photos
of the 30 foot tower, then combined them later in Photoshop.
The Art Cars, among the few vehicles
bearing playa driving permits, made you look twice! Cars were
built from other cars and lots of other random stuff, with everything
from circuit boards to elaborate sculpture used as decoration.
Most were intricate small additions to the main body, but a few
completely redid the contours of what enclosed the passenger compartment,
such as the 'Finmobile' bearing two shark like fins 12 feet tall!
In the central part of the city, people bustled
about, bicycles and other pedaled vehicles ran along the roads.
Facades of colorful sheets and ramshackle structures formed the
structures of this city, with large vehicles forming the nucleus
of many of these. Music blared from speakers, megaphones blared
zany madness and banners twirled from long poles.
A small building housed a radio station, Radio
Free Burning Man which played incredible music and gave information
on where volunteers are needed, events planned, and such. At one
time 3 stations were operating, one of them mounted on a huge
tricycle giving running accounts of what was seen. A festive mood
was maintained, color and shapes were brought together which revealed
at every turn the many interesting and benevolent lives brought
together for this occasion.
I have never beheld a greater concentration
of creativity in one place, including all the art shows I have
ever seen. The need for such intensive 'tribal gatherings', where
freedom and unleashed exuberance rule, is another of the sociological
enrichments introduced in the sixties.
This is apparently an event which would never have come into being without the discovery of Psychedelic drugs. The influence of this other sixties innovations were by no means universal but clearly woven through out the collective fabric of the occasion. If you read 'The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test' by Tom Wolfe some hints of the initial inner sparkle behind it all might be gleaned...but magnify the size and variety a thousandfold and add the maturity of the tools available now to enhance the mass experience and the stage is set for a wacky carnival where unpredictable beauty, zaniness, and irreverence meet you at every turn.
As I wander along the dirt streets, I realize
at last that I am free, I am really able to let go of my outer
life for awhile. A shape defined itself from the darkness, it's
a large sphere of ice with clocks embedded in it, to be slowly
exposed as the ice melts!
The 40 foot tall 'Burning Man' itself towered
over everything, neon lights in alternating light green and violet
outlining it's form at night. Thousands of generators fed lights,
music systems, even a few video projectors! FM radio stations
played music and very local news. Recordings of live Grateful
Dead shows were prominent in the selections, with This Mortal
Coil and Loreena McKennett also heard along with much obscure
and exotic sounds. Incessant drumming came from everywhere, and
marching bands snaked along the foot and bicycle traveled streets.
By Friday, the third day, I am in the midst
of a sprawling tent city of about 12 thousand people. No cars
were allowed in the village. No selling of items except for a
few Black Rock City run provision centers. Many people parade
about with fantastic costumes, some wearing little or nothing.
Many of them are engineers and artists who build creatively elaborate
contributions to the mass experience.
Meeting with those I knew there we share company
and refreshments and proceed to be enveloped in the gathering
joyous madness. Dust devils occasionally plow their
way through the area, an earlier one snaked across the sky defined
by a translucent tube of dust perhaps 200 feet high, now another
more aggressive one approaches, dust sweeps by, carrying papers,
plastic bags, and cloth with it. It gets more dusty, suddenly
we are inside the funnel, completely hidden from the outside world
by an opaque tan wall for a few moments! I hide my face after
stealing a look, then look up as the wind dies away to see a dome
tent spiraling crazily dozens of yards overhead. 'Wizard of Oz'
references are gleefully made!
I walk in the dusty streets past a group of men wearing
nothing but broad stripes of body paint, with tents and geodesic
domes of all sizes housing people in many novel ways. Mutant mannequins
and intricate metal and wooden creations adorn the habitats and
exhibits. Bare breasts are so common you no longer consider it
exceptional. Climbable towers and tall wooden light and flag poles
loom above the city, with elaborately tied rope mandalas and tie-dye
tapestries stretched across their structures.
A couch on wheels smoothly rolls by, it's driver
using a joystick to steer while passing a bus covered with thousands
of brilliant toys, 'OMYGAWD' is painted in reverse on it's front,
for the benefit of those in front of him on the road. A right
turn brings me face to face with a small remote controlled wheeled
robot vehicle with a camcorder (mounted in a clear dome capable
of swiveling about) and a big television monitor mounted at the
base to show the spectators what the camera sees as it picks it's
way through the crowd. I laughed until it hurt then laughed some
more. A loud drone draws my attention upwards, to see 2 ultralight
aircraft flying in close formation, and a one person helicopter
putters across the flats beyond, gaining speed in the uncrowded
regions to take off. A very loud engine sound in the distance
proves to be a 'pulse jet' like that which powered the V-1 buzzbombs
powering a small wheeled vehicle. Another tricycle cart speeds
up as a 10 foot jet of flame erupts from it's rear!
The shimmering light of a million random dabs
of color building up the heat stirred scene around me forms an
image of sail cycles in the distance riding atop a fluttering
blue mirage looking for the world like sailboats on a lake! Purple
shadows nearly fill our side of the mountains, the remaining sunlit
portions sharply displaying every texture. The Sun is still harsh,
so glad I have my hat, and lots of water!
I wander towards a writhing mass of color suspended
above the tan flatness, the giant tent I have admired since my
arrival draws me in as the brilliance of it's hot air balloon
fabric fill more of my vision. Inside, the shade is wonderful,
and the radiance of the sunlight passing through the rainbow colored
stripes dances in vivid contrasts as afterimages of one end of
the spectrum plays with the colors seen next. The wind picks up
wide stretches of the fabric, rolling it in graceful waves over
and around me.
Twirling banners outside furiously corkscrew
themselves into the wind, beyond lies the playa and finally the
intricately irregular skyline of Black Rock city backed by the
purple western mountains.
The temperature delightfully drops as the high clouds form tapered
and feathery shapes...near the sun, stripes of iridescent colors
give me a taste of the most beautiful hues nature can provide...I
shoot Kodachromes as I revel in the beauty above and around me!
Kites twirl in the breeze, their long tails form cirlique patterns
in the deepening sky. A tremendous arch made of 50 tethered kites
is held by two people a hundred yards apart. I wonder if the conditions
are ripe for a good sunset and soon enough I get the first good
sign: the Eastern clouds are being lit along their bottoms like
the western ones soon will be.
I have a fresh roll ready and moving to the
emptier stretches I watch the natural spectacle begin. As I shoot
frame after frame, varying the exposure, I become aware of a new
sound emerging all around me - the cheering of thousands who stopped
what they were doing and poured their appreciation out in waves
of joyous roaring filling the fiery heavens with exclamations
of excitement! There they cheered behind the Burning man, it's
silhouette outlined in flashing neon as crimson pink cloud textures
tinted the entire scene around me with rosy light. As I took a
picture a distant huge fireball rolled skywards!
I wept with joy at the spectacle,
dear God it's so beautiful and I'll never forget this! I know
for once this is shared by thousands around me.
A band played "The Star Spangled Banner"
into the gathering night.
The deep red afterglow in the clouds persisted for a long time
as the sea of lights came alive below. A bat is briefly silhouetted
against the twilight. While still on the flat less crowded playa
I see someone preparing a mortar like device and I notice people
giving the general direction it's pointed a wide berth...suddenly
a yell "Fire in the hole!" and an eruption of fire spews
out in an instant to form a towering 50 foot fireball, startling
in it's size and heat, rising and twisting and darkening into
an undulating black smoke ring directly above us. All I can do
to try to keep from being overwhelmed by it all was to keep moving,
and be treated to something else unexpected and deal with yet
another experience on it's own terms.
Back at a friends camp it's party time. Beers
emerge from ice chests, etc.
From many parties of all sizes came joyous noises,
music, and the exclamations of people wandering by and marveling
at the hundreds of toys arranged on pedestals around the dome.
Hours later, I head back to the tent and settle in.
You don't really feel worried about leaving things unattended
but one likes to check on things now and again while wandering
through it all. I've had enough this evening, the last one this
community would pass through intact.
-FAST FORWARD- This is the day of the burning. At
strategic locations fire trucks and paramedics sit and wait, a
sight I find both ominous and reassuring.
It is Saturday night and the population is gathering
towards Burning Man, it is nearly time. Another fine sunset nearly
as colorful as last night's has left a slowly dispersing cloud
ceiling dripping with bulbous 'mammatus' shapes. This one marks
the start of the climatic ceremony I and my companions arrived
early, I have three fully charged batteries and a full Hi8 tape,
and lots of water. I have the best view and the wind is at my
back. Columns of drumming costumed people with long spear like
staffs bearing green glow sticks and torches arrive, assume places,
and dance around the wood and neon giant in the center. A fire
show begins, men stride while whirling giant flaming batons...men
walking on burning stilts, naked women caressing themselves with
torches, a few litter borne dignitaries with huge adorned masks
look like priests of forgotten cultures...the drumming builds
in intensity and overlapping variety and the neon on the Man looks
like slits through which the light of another world shines as
the chemical peak washes over me, with purple auras swimming around
the neon man.
The audience yells "Buurrrn it!!!"
and talkative individuals who don't know what they're saying pour
it all out to their neighbors. Again and again one fellow urgently
repeats "Jesus Christ the Lord is dead, Jesus Christ the
Lord is dead...on and on. Eventually another man pipes up "whoaa,
buddy, that's enough acid for you!" with a general nearby
laughter emerging in response. Suddenly amid the drumming and
screaming someone climbs the tall steps at the base of the Man
while blazing from head to foot! This stunt man in protective
gear stands between the legs, reaches out and activates the fuses,
climbs down the other side, and collapses as a crew cover him
with foam and blankets. The Man is on fire, red flares spewing
from the extended arms and yellow flames climbing the wooden structure...A
sputtering roar announces the first of many levels of pyrotechnics
buried within, and the torso noisily erupts in a white sparkling
mass. The neon tubes die quietly, falling here and there amid
showers of glowing sparks. A swirling column of flame races through
the intricate structure of the legs and torso as more caches of
fireworks spray out from the roaring mass of flame. Well placed
Roman candles provide fiery ejaculations from the proper spot
on the figure! As the paper head is engulfed by the fire, it's
hoard of skyrockets roar upward from the conflagration, smoke
surges sideways, and for a time the man itself is dwarfed by an
enormous plume of dense smoke alternately lit from without and
within by the dazzling bursts and surges of fireworks feeding
the growing conflagration Finally the Man collapses in a fiery
mass and a dance around the heap of fire begins, some costumed,
some naked, many carrying torches, all looking very pagan. Fireworks
rise from the crowd to explode overhead. Red flares drop among
us. Music and drums are everywhere. It is time for the community
to begin to die.
While I head back to continue my
own revelry with friends I see a huge tractor-like wagon, bearing
a flame thrower with a long tube which spins loudly and menacingly
as it prepares to fire... a wild crowd moves alongside it, yelling
out advice on what to burn. At a selected sculpture a stream of
burning gasoline erupts from the tube, tracing out feathery patterns
at it's bottom, billowy above, as another bonfire is added to
those around me. Some of them look as big as burning houses! A
side mounted model rocket atop a truck loudly spews out a 20 foot
jet of flame nearby while people wearing phosphorescent glow sticks
along their bodies look like simple computer graphic skeletons.
A large black dog thusly adorned is misleadingly outlined and
looks particularly surreal in the darkness! An elaborate arrangement
of moving lights in a wheeled vehicle looks like someone reined
to a giant dragonfly with flapping wings.
I will never forget this, This event is proof that
a lot that means so much to me lives and thrives. I have ideas
for the next one, things to build and add to the collective experience.
It is important to be a participant rather than a spectator as
much as possible. I dream about being out there often.