Thursday began with a human tragedy in of all
places the 'Comfort and Joy' camp when camp members entered a
presumed empty large Moroccan tent in which housed a gym. The
first camp member had entered about 7 A.M., proceeding to work
out for a short time on some gym equipment housed inside. Nearby
a long mannequin like bundle hung from a rope, obscure in the
start of daylight. It looked like someone was playing a joke with
a dummy. One of the other arriving camp members looked more closely
and found to their horror the dead body of a young man who had
hung himself, and exclaimed something like 'Uh, ya know that guy's
dead, right?' This first unequivocal suicide (only counted by
the BM Organization if they die within the event boundaries, although
at least a couple have actually killed themselves there by fire
and scaffold diving) was that of a Fort Collins, Colorado resident
named Jermaine Barley, AKA 'Jerm', a DJ, artist and lover of Burning
Man. He may have felt terminally lonely and decided this was the
best place to die, which he accomplished perhaps an hour before
the first camp member entered the tent. Although I am a believer
in informed Suicide in appropriate situations, at age 22 such
a choice was tragically short sighted. Emergency personnel were
called and the tent was sealed off while a brief investigation
took place. The Black Rock City mental health Team sent grief
counselors to the tent to talk over things with the camp members.
His camp mates who also drove there from Colorado were concerned
after he wandered off and never returned, and during the rest
of the event they left messages on the community bulletin board
and repeatedly visited medical tents, hearing nothing. Only when
they returned home did they learn the fate of their companion.
The news of the suicide was announced to the world, not by the
Burning Man organization which generally shuns bad news but by
the BLM, an agency arguably hostile to the event. This second
bizarre story from Black Rock City also made the national news,
and prompted the 'Fox news' attempt at a comedy program, 'Red
Eye' to ignorantly ridicule the story.
The rope Jerm used to hang himself was given to David Best to
be burned in his tall 'Temple Of Forgiveness' Sunday night. This
would be the last of his celebrated temples erected as modern
sacred spaces on the Playa. This Burning Man had another note
of finality to it, the last year the quirky but biting alternate
newspaper 'Piss Clear' would be published. Along with the vanishing
of the black Rock Gazette previously this was a sad passing of
another familiar feature of the event. the last issue had the
headline 'So Long, And Thanks For All The Drugs'.
Thursday was the day our camp lost two of its
members.
As I got out of my tent in the late morning, I was told Karen
and Emily had decided to go home. For Karen especially the experience
wasn't working out, partially from lack of sleep since arriving
and partly the all pervading dust. I was sad that we would be
losing some good company but at least they had a good taste of
life at Black Rock City, some of which they enjoyed. They said
their good-bys and started their car, backing at once into a large
glass jug which had been placed behind a rear tire. Soon we determined
the tire was OK, and all the glass we could see was picked up.
They waved their good-bys again and drove off.
Gordon washed his bare feet in a small metal tub, which I dumped
and cleaned in preparation for washing my hair. As my hands swished
around the interior to clear the mud away a sharp pain stabbed
into my left index finger, and I saw a small curved scimitar of
glass about the size of a big toenail clipping imbedded deeply
at the base of the fingernail. I grabbed the tweezers from my
med kit and carefully pulled it out, satisfying myself that I
had gotten all of it. My finger then bled copiously, leaving a
trail at my feet for a short time before being bandaged. The pain
soon thankfully faded into a bad memory.
Left: my tent pushed by the wind. Above: a self portrait wearing my dust gear.
As it turned out Karen and Emily had but a
merciful hint of the kind of conditions we were about to experience.
Perhaps an hour after they left, just enough time to clear the
Playa in the absence of a mass exodus, a major dust storm arrived
which in retrospect would surely have justified their decision.
It grew from intermittent gusts highlighting an steady brisk breeze
to the emergence of buffeting walls of air gathering great masses
of dust before them. I could see something of the approaching
'front' of dust towering over the domes and RVs. The usual pale
tan dust clouds were accompanied by dark gray plumes contrasty
enough to make me wonder if something was burning amid the dust.
I had initially decided to ride out this storm in my tent. The
entrance was partially zipped so an overall 'sky color' was cast
into the interior. As the storm picked up, the tent lurched and
bent alarmingly downwind, the turbulent air mass scouring my tent
and mylar cover with a shrill metallic rustle, and nearby poles
wailed as they defiantly sliced through the wind.
The lighting around us spilling into the tent shifted from the
bluish sky color to the bright pale tan of traditional Playa 'white
outs' I had already experienced. The ambient light then grew ominously
darker and browner, prompting me to throw on my mask and goggles
and check things out. Such sudden darkening usually happens within
a huge and usually destructive dust devil. This was the dark inner
storm I had glimpsed previously, not smoke but dirt dense enough
to block out most sunlight. Dust clods were audibly being sprinkling
across the tent. Our chairs were being tipped over and loose objects
from parts unknown were gliding along the ground, only visible
within about 20 feet due to the dust. The dominate sound I recall
hearing through that of the wind on my ears was the fluttering
of fabrics in the wind like so many flags.
I called to Michael in his tent to help secure things, while I
folded and weighed down the chairs and tables. I then started
repairing tears in my tents' mylar cover, fortunately limited
in length by the ribs of plastic tape backing I had used since
last year. A few video clips of the chaos were also obtained with
a cheap solid state video camera which was more robust in such
conditions than tape based devices. A modest sprinkling of rain
came and went, briefly tapping on the flat shade structure.
For perhaps an hour this dust storm raged across the region, at
times dense enough to make it look, in our already crowded area,
that we could have been the only ones there. The shade structure
emerged from this test of its integrity with flying colors, secure
but coated with rain plastered playa dust. The clouds beyond the
passing dust storm reared majestically, catching the remaining
sunlight, signalling the close of act two of the drama nature
had in store for this event. During the storm a large amount of
dust had filtered in and settled down inside the tent, covering
the interior with an even brown coating. From earlier experience
I carefully bundled up the sheet I had laid over that I didn't
want dusty and carried it outside to shake it off, leaving everything
in the tent which was under the sheet pristine. Usually it would
take all day to gather so much dust, rather than in a single hour.
This was at about the time Tethered Aviation was to conduct its
traditional kite flying display, but nature intervened in this
opportunity.
In the evening the dust had long settled. People filled the streets and wandered among the wonders in the generally tranquil evening. Again I was impressed at how the vitality of the place was most apparent at night, where a sense of the mass energy, personal and electrical, of the event could be grasped while standing in the darkness surrounded by this astonishing spectacle. That night the rebuilt Man was erected, with the figure and the new green neon a near duplicate of the original which had been torched less than three days before. It was a gratifying sight, and one can only imagine the work lavished on making this happen.
The Great Dust Storm of Friday, August 31
On this last full day of the intact existence
of Black Rock City the three of us decided to push out to the
perimeter fence, on bikes only a modest investment of time. As
usual, Gordon tended to try to lose us in the distance. As we
headed out to more pristine looking stretches of Playa the wind
was raising local ground fog like patches of dust, which on a
bicycle one could readily dodge if you were keeping track of them.
As the orange plastic barrier fence widened from a distant line
on the horizon to the partition marking the 'edge of our world'
we gathered for a congratulatory toast of whiskey among ourselves,
taking a symbolic swallow apiece. (Significant alcohol consumption
is foolhardy out there) Gordon wanted to light up a joint there
but Michael and I warned him about the BLM thugs watching people
everywhere for that specific act. People at Burning man are under
nearly as much surveillance by them as inmates are in a prison
yard so sadly I concluded it was in our best interests to wait
for more private circumstances.
The wind steadily gained strength with scattered gusts driving
widening ghostly masses of dust before them. Only part of the
tent City was visible through broken walls of airborne powder.
their shredded edges reminding me of the frayed boundaries of
coastal fog in the Bay Area coastal hills. On the horizon to our
South, over and beyond the distant Tent City, emerged a frighteningly
vast turbulent wall of dust, churning and lunging forward like
a magnified slow motion avalanche. I was to learn later that this
storm had just subjected Reno to a violent cloudburst.
I took some final pictures of the advancing
storm front then put the cameras away and zipped up the bag. We
started back, with Gordon as usual speeding well ahead. The wall
of dust thus engulfed him as if he simply disappeared a few hundred
feet away, then half a minute later our surroundings also merged
with the dust and the wind. Powdery solid fog roared past us like
ghostly herds of panicked animals stampeding through each other.
The Sun swiftly dimmed to safe direct viewing intensity in the
light gray sky near it, with darker billows of dust clouds crossing
in front to erase the pale disk from view as I watched. The gusts
made bicycling impractical, so we dismounted and stood facing
the wind about 20 feet apart. The wind tore at us, making my cloths
flutter with a brisk vibration as they struggled to join the wind.
I estimated the wind speed as 60 miles per hour based on experience
in open cars, and one had to stand braced against it to avoid
feeling off balance.
The amount of dust around us dramatically grew more concentrated
in a short time so as to turn the entire field of view into a
medium brown featureless blur except for the ground a couple of
yards around. Up to this point I had experienced this level of
intensity in dust storms here before, out in the open as well
as helping to keep a shade structure intact.
The fluttering wind noise was joined by the
dull spatter of clods of dirt hitting me, thudding against my
cloths and smacking against my clear plastic goggles. This meant
great amounts of stuff larger than dust was being carried off.
Despite the layers of sheet wound around my lower face I started
to cough at the dust. my eyes were stinging from powder whistling
through the little holes in the goggles and piling up inside.
I had to remove them, with my eyes mostly closed, and shake the
accumulated dust out being careful not to lose them. I grabbed
my water and emptied a little of it on my eyes, downwind, then
wiped them off and replaced the goggles under those conditions.
The nice thing about this dust is it's so fine you don't have
to worry about injury to the eyes, it takes to water and can be
readily washed out. I have to imagine woe to those with contact
lenses however! Drinking a little water helped clear my throat.
I remember thinking that now would be a good time to smoke a joint
undetected by the snoopy BLM! I wondered how my camp was doing
in our absence and how long it would be until I found out.
Facing the constant gale one could gain a sense of dense and less
dense pockets of dust by the declining visibility turning to feet
instead of yards and by the color of the featureless surroundings.
The light level visibly dropped yet again and the overall color
changed from a medium brown to a dark olive green, reminding me
a little of the color of storm clouds filled with hail. The gale
shrieked and tore at us, here and there dimly perceived scraps
of debris bounced past.
The Playa serpents came to life around me. What had been linear
dunes at my feet stretched, dissolved and re-emerged from the
whistling streaky chaos as new dynamicly shifting dunes like something
one would see in a time machine. Some faced the wind seemingly
trying to assert themselves as a refuge for fleeing companions
to gather behind, others raced along the cracked surface as darker
streaks on the ground up to a yard wide wandering in swift lunging
motions like giant ethereal pythons. Above, there was no trace
of the Sun, only the vaguest sense of it being lighter above.
The flying dirt clods changed to airborne mudballs flying nearly
sideways through the air, spattering across my cloths and mask.
The wind chilled and carried less dust as the central down draft
of the storm cell passed over us. The blank surroundings lightened
and turned a pale blue, as if the overall light of the skies above
was beginning to sift through the dust pall being driven downwards.
The upper sky lightened and the wind gradually died down, to the
point where we could shake out some of the dust and begin to walk
our bikes in the bright fog towards the direction we presumed
the city would be.
Eventually the outlines of the tops of the RVs dominating the
outer city emerged, just as another round of heavy dust laden
winds swept through the region. several minutes later, after weathering
the elements with a few others on bicycles, a street sign was
found and we soon made it back to camp.
There was no damage to our tents, and the shade structure was
mud splattered and playa colored but intact. Dunes several inches
deep curved across the plastic tarp courtyard. There were rips
on one side of my mylar fabric tent cover which were limited by
the amount of plastic tape backing I had used, so repairs were
made in a few minutes. The interior of my tent was a uniform brown
as in yesterdays storm, everything inside thickly coated with
dust. My blanket covered sleeping bag and pillows again remained
clean under the cover sheet I habitually used.
As we cleaned up the dust passed us by, chased by a light rain.
The Western sky was clearing, allowing the sunlight to play across
the turbulent dust, rain and clouds. The conditions appeared ripe
for a rainbow, and I dug out my still camera in anticipation.
Indeed arcs of colors soon appeared, rising from the horizon on
either side of the 'anti solar' point, soon bridged by a chromatic
arch to form one of the most beautiful rainbows I had ever seen.
Widespread cheers, clapping and drumming heralded this sight from
every corner of Black Rock City. It was as if the population used
this mass vision as a focus for a collective sense of relief from
the harrowing experience of the storm it now covered.
The main bow was especially vivid at it's height, with rain textures
gracefully highlighted inside its border. The inner edge of the
rainbow was lined with a repeating 'fringe' of delicate color
stripes repeatedly 'echoing' an abbreviated spectrum inside the
primary bow. Outside this main arc the dim wider secondary bow
softly framed the spectacle.
I later heard of numerous uprooted tents, lost
items, and injuries due to the storm. A woman reportedly had her
arm broken by flying debris. Gordon appeared and told his storm
story. He rode out the storm alone, protected but suffering in
the dense dust. A dark shape leaped out at him from the opaque
surroundings, proving to be a folded plastic tarp torn from some
nameless camp. This tarp became a place of refuge when Gordon
wrapped it around himself, forming a small relatively calm shelter.
In this sanctuary Gordon decided to light up the joint be had
brought, safe amid the chaos. This happened at about the same
time the idea of the safety of doing so occurred to me.
My evaporation
pond was intact, but with one corner of the plastic only held
down by a large rock and the remaining water. Kneeling over it
I then washed my hair, which truly needed it then. I thought of
Dr. Lizard, who had during a storm several years ago commented
on such events 'separating the wheat from the chaff' in the population.
Indeed such weather in the past often led to a stall in the rate
of population growth of the event the next year. The tent City
dusted itself off and roared to life by nightfall, when the glowing
streets were busy with foot and bicycle traffic. As in the previous
night, the city collectively shrugged off the siege of the elements
and blossomed like a field of luminous living things that only
emerge at night. One interesting night time sight was caused by
a long row of gas flame spewing pipes, timed to go off in co-ordinated
sequences. Each would brightly illuminate its immediate area,
casting long shadows farther away. When you were near them the
sudden lighting changes from behind to before you on such a large
scale was visually striking. There were numerous custom built
vehicles of beautiful and sometimes puzzling design as well as
the usual 'party barges'. A few ships still cruised the night
time flatness, built around buses, but none as elegant as the
fabled 'Contessa', sadly neglected and destroyed by arson last
year.
Wandering in the night one would come upon art and various prepared
personal spaces inviting quiet contemplation. There were attractions
mobile and stationary reaching at our collective humorous, spiritual,
political, anarchistic and bar hopping natures, all appreciated
by various portions of the multitude. By midnight Friday night
Rangers began evacuating the region around the Man to prepare
for Saturday night.