As I woke and washed Friday the satellite image
came to mind, which I naturally slept through the previous morning.
At least it had been clear weather, and something wonderful to
look forward to seeing upon my return to the real world. Carter
and I met up in the early afternoon as arranged and rode out to
see some attractions together. We headed first to the major art
camp, with one of the huge tents devoted to the works of visionary
artist Alex Gray. On the way in we had to pass through a kind
of open tunnel, and something was blocking the way as we arrived.
The wait was worth it however, as I came upon a bearded artist
giving away a box of his beautiful Burning Man posters. One side
looked deceptively slapdash and unexceptional, the other was a
richly adorned Burning Man logo done in bronze and brown colors,
built up from bulbous overlapping segments bearing eyes. I got
one and managed to keep it in pristine condition. Poster in hand,
I briefly toured the trio of art gallery configured tents, despite
the extra bother some of them caused by wanting people to remove
their shoes before entering. One work which I was struck by was
a large fiery spiral composition, with close inspection revealing
couples of many present and past species copulating, carrying
the fire of life along the abyss of time.
We finally entered the tent of Alex Gray. To imagine his work
one must see
it, I can mention that my sense of
intricate detail manifested in my own painting brings me special
appreciation for the monumental body of work of this amazing artist.
On one wall hung a loving portrait of Albert Hoffman, the inventor
of LSD, whose state of consciousness has been an influence along
the way for many an artist. His face was painted partially transparent
with vividly colored layers of anatomy laid bare like someone
unevenly turning invisible amid a hallucinogenic background while
holding a model of the molecule whose effects he first experienced.
Several huge hangings of print-outs of some of Alex's paintings
hung along the other walls, with the artist sitting at a small
easel painting a colorful swirling texture while chatting with
fans. Other artists were there nearby creating works as well,
the place almost seeming like a kind of artist colony.
The belief systems represented here are probably
among the most varied of any place in the 'free west', probably
running the gamut from pagan and metaphysically oriented beliefs
to practitioners of numerous established faiths and a lot of people
intuitively feeling their way as they go along. I believe there
is an expectation of miracles permeating much of the social fabric
of Burning Man as much as one can find outside of a specialty
gathering. People are receptive to things which are suppressed
in the outside world, intuition can be trusted more here, and
more events fall into the places being opened up for their useful
occurrence.
One instance of synchronicity I experienced Friday stemmed from
a detour to say hello to Jane Heaven, then serving food at a Roman
era villa decorated encampment. The tables were topped by big
printouts of Roman mosaics gathered in repeated trips abroad.
Having just entered the camp I was directed by a member to take
my bicycle out of the fenced in area, and I then parked and locked
the bike just outside the partition barrier. I chatted with Jane,
who fed me melon slices which were great in the hot sun, then
I noticed someone appearing to climb on my bike. I investigated,
and learned he was staggering from loosening stilts and was saved
from an uncontrolled long fall by the handlebars of my bike! My
happening to move it to that spot at that place and time possibly
saved someone from injury, and seeing that happen reinforced the
sense of magic I had felt in past years, especially in 2001 when
Michael and I were gifted by a passerby from a large sack at random
with the very items we had wished for among ourselves!
Friday is the last day to appreciate the Tent City in its maturity,
when everything is built up and running at full speed. This is
the final day to live in the alternate world of our own making
knowing it would be there tomorrow. Exploring is especially rewarding
on this day, away from the central streets many hidden attractions
would emerge along the outer blocks. In general the quality of
life appeared better in the outer streets and excessively packed
further inward than we were camped. There were still sizable areas
roped off here and there for groups who never showed up. A friend,
Russ, was to meet up with me at sunset, but he never appeared
despite a search for him at the appointed time and place. Later
I was to learn of his sad fate at the very gates to the event
at about this time.
Just before sunset I came upon a remarkable
contraption, an articulated mechanical spider which must have
weighed over a ton, driven by someone sitting in a small seat
in the abdomen. A path had to be cleared among the people and
bikes in its path, a can placed under a foot was stomped flat.
The spider vehicle could walk forwards and back, and rotate in
place in either direction. It reminded me of a midget version
of the mechanical spider in the film 'Wild Wild West'.
At night in my wanders I saw many things, among which was a woman climbing while winding herself in a length of cloth hanging from a huge stout tripod, to suddenly release herself to spin as the cloth unwound, stopping at the bottom with graceful gestures. A train whistle often hooted in the darkness, this evening I finally saw its source, a small working steam locomotive fitted with wide metal wheels, chugging and hissing its way among crowds of admirers.
The cathedral sculpture loomed above the horizon line of distant lights. Bathed in pulsing colors from nearby floodlights, it became a beautiful looming apparition in the darkness. people danced in the open cathedral late into the night, I saw once among them a man dressed like a Neanderthal with a traditional Jesus haircut sucking on a big pacifier, such as are used in raves to prevent teeth grinding under the influence of ecstasy, and he was holding upright a crucifixion sized cross. As I left the colorful cathedral many puffs of fire abruptly erupted from a long series of mounted synchronized flame throwers. The far end of the series is separated from the closer end by perhaps a second, twelve puffs of fire occurring with quick ordered succession in between. From a great distance it might look like a huge torch being waved about by a violently gesturing giant. The playa is lit along a line near the horizon by the furthest flare, and the last fills my surroundings with blazing orange light.
A smaller but more impressive use of coordinated
fire fountains was on a giant metal snake skeleton, with each
vertebrae along the long spine equipped with a nozzle. When activated,
the larger than dinosaur sized serpent reared its rattlesnake
head high, its fanged jaws gaping as fire erupted from its mouth
and in moving jets speeding along its backbone in loud whistling
puffs.
One eerie night time
landmark was a bluish white line of light generally extending
straight up looking like a very tall tower. I eventually happened
to pass near its base, revealing it as a very long string of colored
lights held aloft by a large unlit balloon. The 'tower of light'
was high enough to observe an odd visual impression of the blend
between the rapid motion near its base, from wind and deliberate
manipulation, and the steady swaying relative stillness of the
distant top of this ephemeral 'tower'. The apex of this ribbon
of light appeared as a bridge to the stars themselves.
By this time the pair of metal framework hands noted earlier were
joined by a dense web of ropes sturdy enough for several people
to climb within them. The nature of this work of art had changed
a good deal since the original isolated metal sculptures I had
admired early in the week. parts of the metal sculpture were doing
double duty as percussion instruments, with resonate echoing rhythmic
clashing being sustained by people wandering in and out of the
pool of random musicians.
At night on the playa I use the stars to keep track of time. When
the Pleides rises above the eastern mountains at this time of
year it is about Midnight. They look like a little patch of light
with the brighter members of this nearby star cluster standing
out under scrutiny. When Orion is rising it is about two in the
morning, time to start thinking about sleep if you want to start
the next day fresh.
Saturday the city is no longer stable, everyone
is aware of the coming ritual of this night marking a kind of
'half life' of the event, when a major landmark will vanish and
the Tent City will begin to unravel. There is a sense of urgency
to see what has so far been missed, to drink in the experience
which in the earlier part of the week seems like a timeless existence,
but whose time is at last beginning to run out. On this last day
I would have access to the interior of Uchronia I ventured out
to it and wrote the name of an old friend, Gregory Yob, who had
died last October shortly after I had regained contact with him,
making his memorial a repeat performance after reacting to an
earlier false death rumor during my last attended Burning Man.
Actually he is perhaps not quite dead, as his head has been delicately
cryogenically frozen and stored for the time a new existence can
be made available for such subjects. I wrote his name in bold
letters and included other names he used. Many other memorials
and other messages were written across the reachable wood, one
read 'The end of the world will be better next time'. Many people
were gathered to reflect on those who had died recently, and a
respectful hush predominated.
As the hours pass and as the shadows grow the plans for the night
take form.
About 2 or 3 in the afternoon I began to limit my water intake
for this day only, reducing the occasions and amounts of urination
to the point of not interfering with the enjoyment of the Burn
during the three hours I will be stuck in the inner circle. I
had been going through a gallon a day, or to put it another way
I has it go through me. I plan ahead in this way so as not to
be in the position I had suffered in what otherwise was the most
memorable concert I had ever attended, Bill Graham's 'S.N.A.C.K.
concert at San Francisco's Kezar stadium on March 23, 1975.
This time, for the first night
of the event, the clouds look as though there could be a really
nice sunset. with this in mind in addition to the wind direction,
of which there is little by which to judge, the best vantage point
this year would also include the brighter part of the sunset behind
the Man. This location is near the ''far' side from the bulk of
Black Rock City, and because of the slightly longer path to get
here our region of the inner circle fills up more slowly than
elsewhere. At about the time the Sun sets behind the mountains
practically all the inner circle is staked out with the slow drift
of people to the site steadily picking up.
The area inside the circle of buried lights surrounding the man
fills with Burning Man Rangers who congregate in several groups,
getting their final directions. People can still walk in or ride
past the lights to an inner zone physically marked with yellow
plastic tape suspended over wooden 'sawhorses', Rangers guarding
the now hazardous inner pedestal of the Man. Most of the day the
nooks and crannies of the interior have been carefully filled
with layer upon layer of fireworks in industrial quantities. All
these fireworks were delicately handled yet positioned with regard
to likely ignition sequence. The last ones to obtain looks and
photographs from close to the Man are being shooed away by the
Rangers spreading out from their conferences. About every 30 feet
a Ranger faced the people who already knew the boundary of the
public was defined by the lights.
This year brought the inauguration of a new set of lights encircling
the Man and defining the minimum safe zone from the fireworks.
Last year the old set of hemispheric plastic lenses, with inner
lights strung together like a giant necklace, was dark virtually
the entire week. This new light array was placed within a series
of plastic tubes housing different colored lights which were used
in programmable sequences. They were tough and could be ridden
over by bikes, and they worked all week.
While the Rangers are being adjusted to the form they would take
for the rest of the formal evening, the sunset takes place with
the unlit Man in silhouette. The clean desert colors wash across
the bottoms of the clouds, fiery orange and red colors spreading
to the west as the window to the night slowly rises in the east.
By now people are arriving in the thousands, piling up along the
near side to the city and drifting around the inner circle in
a kind of steady encirclement. It is dismaying to see people bringing
coolers, blankets and tripods to the inner circle, in a crowd
all can be liabilities. Rangers come up to most of the visible
examples and explain the error of their ways, but they give higher
priority to shooing away people with bicycles. One ranger who
is now nearest me, named 'Peaches', recalls horror stories of
forests of standing and prone bikes working mayhem in the darkness.
She mentions being a liaison for law enforcement and reports smooth
going from her perspective. To her right is a Ranger who acted
supervisory to neighboring Rangers, to her right was a kindly
fellow who gave away flattened pennies emblazoned with the Burning
Man logo. The number of people has become too great to see the
horizon, and although people have not been told yet to sit most
people are sitting with standing up being the rule perhaps 60
feet beyond my innermost position. Twilight lights the sky behind
the cloud silhouettes and the Man is still dark, I wonder if something
is wrong. A burst of fireworks and the lighting of the neon then
announce the festivities, the smoke left from the fireworks played
upon by the distant laser of 'WOW' camp. Fire dancers arrive and
find their groups. Soon the interior space is filled with people
spinning and gesturing with fire to a hundred drumbeats, instruments
being played within the crowd, and periodic bursts of fire lighting
the surroundings from beyond.
Finally the arms of the Man are being raised, accompanied by cheering
and a cacophony of horn blasts. This is the traditional call for
people to gather, but by now practically everyone has arrived.
The population density of the outer regions must be at the level
of a ghost town about now!